A fine-granite quarry close to Castle Rock in St. Johns in the Vale. From a distance the quarry looks dangerously loose but closer inspection reveals some good solid areas of rock. Many of the routes when they were first put up were a mixture of trad and occasional home made bolt hangers. Many upper tier routes are hard to protect with trad gear and most have now been retro-bolted.
WARNING: September 2018 – rockfall reported at the far right hand end of the upper tier, routes around the area of false profit. There is reportedly some loose blocks still ‘attached’ to the crag which may fall so either avoid or use caution.
Not an aesthetic crag but good slab climbing and accessible for a quick hit.
Park in a layby just South of the quarry entrance. It is critical not to obstruct the entrance as this is a working quarry and access will be removed if climbers act irresponsibly. Follow the zig-zag track to a T-junction, turn right and then up the grass ridge to the upper tier, or straight on to the lower tier.