A good sandstone crag in an idyllic location by the river. Recent and ongoing extensive tree clearance has opened up and dried out all of the right end of the crag – more routes should now be in condition throughout the year.
Classics include King Fisher (VD) Glenwille Grooves (HS), Flasherman (VS), Erection (HVS), Barnacle Bill (E1), Paper Moon (E3), Exorcist (E4) and Free and Easy (E5). Some harder routes are quite bold, and the less frequented routes might need a gentle brush before leading (a towel works best).
PLEASE NOTE
Protection on the majority of hard routes is often absent or illusory and many of the first ascents, especially of the hardest climbs, involved abseil inspection and top rope practice prior to the lead. This should be born in mind by anyone considering an “on-sight” lead.
If setting top ropes, please make sure to extend the ropes over the edges to stop erosion and cutting grooves.
Please be kind to the rock when leading, its probably best not to test that sound looking nut behind that flake in a fall!
There is also plentiful steep bouldering by the river and elsewhere.
Park by the bridge and go through the squeeze style in the parapet of the downstream side of the bridge, and a short flight of steps, leads to a path under the bridge and up stream along the bank of the river. After 800m the path forks above a natural weir. Keep left for the main cliff and scramble down some rocky steps to come out just above Sandy Bay area.