[Steve Hardy]

Hi Ed

I respect the fact we all have our opinions on this and none of us are experts but as you’ve taken the time to post, I’ll respond with my opinio. There is further info on the Whatsapp chat too.

Points 1 and 2 suggest we should all be abseiling off the anchors – this is not the BMC advice, nor Mountain Training teaching for any professional mountain instructor for single pitch sport climbing.

I agree it might cause a little less wear on ropes and fixed gear but these rams horns are 12mm steel so will last a while and also take a minute or two to replace, no grinding off of rings, fixed crabs, stuck maillons or chain links.

Abseiling introduces many additional steps for a climber and increases the risk of an accident, rethreading introduces fewer steps but is still highly consequential if a mistake is made, lowering through a safe open system anchor has the least steps. Of course i agree all climbers should know how to safely abseil and to safely rethread – but not all do!

Expansion bolts cited as good practice at Woodcroft Quarry – no longer seen as best practice, resined in bolts – more time to place but will last much much longer and remove many corrosion scenarios that face expansion bolts.

I am still happy to climb on expansion bolts but am now armed with much better ability to identify dangerous bolts on a route (of which there are many in the Lakes and UK). Many new routers and crag developers in the lakes are moving to resin fixed bolts made by Jim Titt (who posts sometimes on these topics in UKC).

I dont have a problem with rethreading (nor with abseiling but usually this is for multipitch sport or very long routes which I’ve climbed with two ropes e.g. on recent trip to Alps this was needed for single pitch sport cos routes were 45m length) but i do agree with the experts that for the majority of single pitch sport, lowering off is the way forward and lowering off using an open system has fewer error traps.

But it is a good discussion and down to personal opinion and preference and your own custom and practice.

Cheers
Steve

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