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It’s hard to imagine a more spectacular backdrop for a week of climbing than the Saastal Valley. Nestled among the giants of the Swiss Alps, our KMC Summer Alpine Meet base near Saas Grund offered access to a mountaineer’s playground: soaring ridges, airy via ferratas, shimmering glaciers, and enough summits to fill a ticklist twice over.
Eight KMC members made the pilgrimage south, most of them travelling by van and car, an adventure in itself, navigating motorways and tunnels that led to a crescendo of snow-capped peaks as we approached the valley. By the time we rolled into Saas, the mountains had already started casting their spell.
The weather was a classic mix of alpine summer conditions. It played ball (mostly) with a mix of beautiful blue bird conditions, followed by afternoon showers and the odd clap of thunder. Pitching the tents and awnings was a truly soaking affair! Having dried off, we picked up our maps and studied the contours, then headed for the lifts with our free Sasstal Card to gain some initial height and start the acclimatisation process. Alastair, who is fortunate enough to be spending time living and working in France, made it a day ahead of the main party and kicked off the week with an audacious solo traverse of the Weismeiss (4013m) from Hohsaas with a descent via Allmagella, all whilst the tents were being pitched. This achievement set the level of ambition across the team as plans were firmed up for the week ahead.
Aclimatisation was underway, the huts were extremely welcoming, and the team’s enthusiasm was high. Over six packed days, we managed a whirlwind of classic routes and lesser-known gems, including multiple high-alpine summits, sharp ridges, and exposed ironwork climbs that got the heart racing. Routes included:
Wiesmess Traverse (by three teams) (PD)
Mittaghorn VF (Grade 3)
Allalinhorn Normal Route x2 (F+/PD-)
Lagginhorn Normal Route (PD)
Allalinhorn Houlabgrat (Mit. Variation) (PD+)
Alpubel via Eis Nase (via Feechopf, decent via Langflue) (PD)
Jegihorn VF (Grade 4)
Blindspot Slabs (4b – 5c)
Nadlegrat attempt with retreat due to high winds – switch to Nadelhorn (PD)As the week drew to a close, boots were worn, gear was battered, but smiles were wide. A final evening in Saas Almagell saw the team gathered for well-earned pizzas, cold beers, and a chance to reflect on a remarkable few days in the high mountains. For several members, this trip marked their first unguided 4000m summits, a huge personal achievement and a milestone worth toasting.
What makes the Saastal Valley so special is not just the dramatic scenery or the impressive range of activities and peaks. It’s the accessibility, a place where seasoned alpinists and ambitious newcomers alike can find routes that challenge and inspire. From glacier travel and high alpine summits to via ferratas and slabs, it’s a venue that delivers on all fronts.
With planning, an enthusiastic team, and a bit of luck from the weather gods, the Saastal Valley is a dream base for club mountaineering and one that we’ll no doubt return to.
Members from the meet: Stu G, Charlie, Jamie, Alastair, Jane, Darren, Gerrard and Jon Trotman (plus Fiona and Ella).
Pictures posted to WhatsApp.
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