Raven Crag, Highstile Saturday 5 Jun-Saturday 5 Jun 2021

[Jonathan Coles]

Raven Crag, High Stile (p.322 in the Wired guide) has 12 routes ranging from VD to E3 including a three star E1 co-authored by the KMC’s Steve Pollington. It is south facing, the holds are unpolished, and it is unlikely to be crowded. It lies SW of the summit of High Stile, overlooking Ennerdale. It should be approached, circumspectly, from above, not below. Contrary to the choice made in the initial announcement, the simplest approach is over Red Pike from Buttermere village. A variant, avoiding a few metres of ascent, might be to take the Scale Force path. An approach from Ennerdale is not recommended unless you use a mountain bike to reach the foot of the Red Pike path.
Unfortunately, the ratio (length of routes/approach ascent) is probably one of the lowest in the world, so I expect Bob Woods won’t come. Only masochists will carry more gear than necessary and I will bring a couple of spare photocopies of the guide. KMC tigers may consider climbing first in Birkness Comb and then strolling over to Raven Crag to relax in the afternoon sun. (In which case, parking at Gatesgarth makes sense.) Indeed, the KMC could commemorate the Covid-postponed centenary of local hero Bill Peascod. Peascod was born on 3 May 1920. On 23 June 1940 he made the first ascent of Eagle Front (VS, 150m). An accurate re-enactment is not recommended: coalminer Peascod cycled over from Workington and soloed the route, presumably in tennis shoes.
I plan to be at the Fish Inn, Buttermere village, at 9 a.m. There is (almost) no free parking very close by. There is a NT park about 200 m towards Crummock, or up the hill on the Newlands road. At the end of the day, we could test the new ownership of the Fish Inn. Contact from participants would be welcome.
Jonathan Coles

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